xtian wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 1:58 am
I swap an old carbide blade on the table saw to cut 0.080 aluminum. Works fine, but I lack a full face shield, and deflecting aluminum chips with my face is always refreshing...
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I think your face is worth $70. Just my 2 cents.
Also, did you consider placing the LND150 in the second vs. the first gain stage? I'm curious as to the difference that would make, if any.
ViperDoc wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 4:31 amAlso, did you consider placing the LND150 in the second vs. the first gain stage? I'm curious as to the difference that would make, if any.
No. I don't want to hear distortion from the FET.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
I knocked out the chassis today, from 0.080" aluminum with 1/4"-20 rivnuts. I found the Blues Jr's PT's 20-0vAC tap is perfect for powering a 28v dial lamp.
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I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Icelandic works better than Choboni. The containers are rectagular. Icelandic changed its formula. My wife doesn't buy them anymore.
Nice stuff you're doing there!
As suggested, I'd like to employ a DC blocking cap between input jack and LND150. I need a rating of 300vDC, but what capacitance, to avoid affecting the guitar signal? And do I need non-polar, or can I get away with electrolytic?
The only caps I have on hand that are small in size are a pair of 10uF/450v radials. But it would fit better if I can just use a single 10uF/450 polarized cap.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Great looking chassis Christian!
I have been using the LND150 as the first stage in several of my amps and I did not need any extra Cap between the Input Jack and the LND150 to tame any noise.
I have been using these LND150 jacks from Granger and they are quiet as a mouse. I order them with a 25K or 10K trimmer than I can adjust with a flat head screwdriver through the outside jack hole.
Granger made some adjustments to these for me and they are dead quiet and come with a switch built in so you can bypass it as well.
Nice looking chassis! Are you cutting slots on the tablesaw as well? Part of me wants to make this jig, part of me is fine with Hammond chassis... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrb1Oh0aJM4
maxkracht wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 7:40 pm
Nice looking chassis! Are you cutting slots on the tablesaw as well? Part of me wants to make this jig, part of me is fine with Hammond chassis... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrb1Oh0aJM4
Bottom line is, I only fab my own chassis if I'm working for myself. It took about two hours for this example. At my hourly rate, that's $150--cheaper to buy a pre-made chassis...if a client was paying for it. I feel the same about cabinetry and vinyl.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Build finished, fired up successfully. 316v plates – 10.3 cathode = 306v plate-to-cathode, 10.3v across 130R cathode resistor = 80mA, or almost exactly 100% dissipation, so that's nice.
I have a LOT of noise at idle. It's not the gNFB, it's just a huge amount of gain following the Volume pot. If I ground the input of the PI, I get silence. But if I ground the input of the prior stage (the triode with 10K catohde), white noise is very loud. In play testing, the amp is extremely loud with the Volume pot just barely above zero. Clearly, I've got to dump a bunch of gain somewhere. Is this a common Liverpool observation?
Photos to come.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
xtian wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 12:40 am
Build finished, fired up successfully. 316v plates – 10.3 cathode = 306v plate-to-cathode, 10.3v across 130R cathode resistor = 80mA, or almost exactly 100% dissipation, so that's nice.
I have a LOT of noise at idle. It's not the gNFB, it's just a huge amount of gain following the Volume pot. If I ground the input of the PI, I get silence. But if I ground the input of the prior stage (the triode with 10K catohde), white noise is very loud. In play testing, the amp is extremely loud with the Volume pot just barely above zero. Clearly, I've got to dump a bunch of gain somewhere. Is this a common Liverpool observation?
Photos to come.
Change the 150k to 56k and decide up or down from there. It's stupid hot.
If you want the amp to do it's intended thing, You will arrive at 68k. If you.. of course you don't gaf.. put it 47k.
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
Hey Aaron, I just built my Liverpool for the second time. I used the 68k instead of the 150k per Miles suggestion. Mine has the high gain hiss but
No extra noise. I also can crank the amp to 2 than after that it’s way too loud. I guess these amps are like the express as a lot of the volume comes on very early on. I use mine with a home made attenuater exclusively.. it sounds great… not muddy with the attenuator.
Good luck. Joe