Type of wire
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Type of wire
Hey guys just ordered the parts and was wondering if I should use braided or solid core wire? Also what gauge is best? Thanks.
-Dom
Ampeg VT-40 4x10 combo w/Jensen MOD 10-70
Rolland JC-120 2x12 Combo
Ampeg VT-40 4x10 combo w/Jensen MOD 10-70
Rolland JC-120 2x12 Combo
Re: Type of wire
I like 20 gauge teflon coated stranded. Other folks hate it. But that's what I use most.
- Ron Worley
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Re: Type of wire
20 awg solid core PVC for most everything, except heaters. Check my BOM for more notes.
Ron
- sepulchre
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Re: Type of wire
Well, there are the two ends of the spectrum - both laudable in their own rite. I've tried all the above and find I prefer 20ga solid (except for heaters). I've mostly used Teflon but on the next one's going to have high temp PVC.
- Ron Worley
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:21 pm
- Location: Keller, TX
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Re: Type of wire
I am saying what was used by Ken Fischer, I don't know if it has any sonic impact, it's just what is accurate to an exact clone.
Ron
Re: Type of wire
If you're a neophyte or sophomore, tweaker or modder, teflon will let you redo the connections without looking like a hack built the amp. You need a good stripper. Teflon can rattle. Solid core stays put but I always worry I nicked the edge stripping it and it'll fail. 20 awg for everything, you can't get 2x18awg into preamp heater pins, if you want you can run 18 for just the power tubes.
- Ron Worley
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:21 pm
- Location: Keller, TX
Re: Type of wire
I have an electric heater stripper with tweezers that allows me to strip the ends of solid core without work and very tidy results.
They go for $75-100 on ebay, worthwhile in my estimation.
They go for $75-100 on ebay, worthwhile in my estimation.
Ron
Re: Type of wire
We used those on Teflon when I worked at Tuboscope (pipeline inspection equip). Just don't breath that little puff of smoke.Ron Worley wrote:I have an electric heater stripper with tweezers that allows me to strip the ends of solid core without work and very tidy results.
They go for $75-100 on ebay, worthwhile in my estimation.
- Ron Worley
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:21 pm
- Location: Keller, TX
Re: Type of wire
Agreed, Teflon is very bad for you, which is why I don't use it. But I might for a Dumble build.
Ron
Re: Type of wire
I don't have any problem stripping it with regular cheap strippers. You just have to be a little careful. And I like it because, aside from being immune to soldering irons, it's also small (thin) and easy to position and work with. But I'm still going to try some high temp PVC, just to check it out.
Re: Type of wire
Ever burn a teflon pan, like really forget it on the stove? It's real bad, you choke right away, definitely toxic gas, it feels like enough of it in a closed kitchen could kill you. I don't think the wire coating on the wire is gassing off like that when soldering, if so I never noticed and I have my face in my work as I'm nearsighted and now with bifocals that I tend to look over. Nott that it's not on a curve so you must be getting a tiny dose even if soldering is below the volatile temp of teflon.Ron Worley wrote:Agreed, Teflon is very bad for you, which is why I don't use it. But I might for a Dumble build.
The making of the crap is damn bad for the environment. Some nasty base chemical for it's manufacture is found in every living thing down to the deepest arctic. EU seems to favor silicon coated wire. I must try it in a build though what I've used is rubbery and wont hold a bend.
Re: Type of wire
I just got some silicon wire from Tube-town. It solders well, doesn't melt on touch with hot iron or get burned, much easier to strip and cheaper than teflon.
Doesn't have quite the same ratings, though at - 380V AC, 500V DC, tested at 2000V. And that's for quite a thick wire (can't remember the AWG sizes now, but must be close to 18 or 20)
I didn't get to the dress part yet, but although quite soft and flexible on touch, seems that it will be reasonably stable. Will report in a week or so.
Niki
Doesn't have quite the same ratings, though at - 380V AC, 500V DC, tested at 2000V. And that's for quite a thick wire (can't remember the AWG sizes now, but must be close to 18 or 20)
I didn't get to the dress part yet, but although quite soft and flexible on touch, seems that it will be reasonably stable. Will report in a week or so.
Niki
Re: Type of wire
Happy to report that the silicone wire works quite well.
Stays where and how you put it quite well, just make sure that you don't get a very thin one (20AWG should do fine). Still not like solid but it works well.
I am definitely switching over, once I find a properly rated one.
I happened to check vendor's spec sheet of the one I bought and it says it's rated U/Uo=300/300V, while on tube-town's website it says 500V, so you have to be careful.
Going to write to them to fix that.
Niki
Stays where and how you put it quite well, just make sure that you don't get a very thin one (20AWG should do fine). Still not like solid but it works well.
I am definitely switching over, once I find a properly rated one.
I happened to check vendor's spec sheet of the one I bought and it says it's rated U/Uo=300/300V, while on tube-town's website it says 500V, so you have to be careful.
Going to write to them to fix that.
Niki
Re: Type of wire
Ken used Belden 8529 wire in his amps, 20gauge solid core/ 1000v. The earlier pvc coat was called thermoplastic. You can recognize the thermoplastic because it is more porous and not as smooth as the later Pvc. He even used this 8529 in the B+ supply starting after the choke resistor.Solid core wire makes a difference in the power supply. Using 18 gauge stranded wire in the power and filtering supply's gives you a different type of low end.
There you go !!!!!!
There you go !!!!!!
Re: Type of wire
Haha. I guess solid core push back vintage style cloth would get you booted out of this forum?