Chassis mounting

[Littlewyan]

Hello all

I'm looking to use a Fender Style Head Cabinet where the chassis is mounted upside down. The chassis I want to use is a Hammond 1444-16 with a bottom cover. As its going to be upside down I'll have to fix the nutserts into the bottom cover. Do you guys think that i'll be able to secure the chassis this way? As it'll only be 4 or 6 screws holding the cover onto the chassis.

I should add that it will be a 1watt amp with 3 Noval Valves, so not overly heavy. Chassis size 10x6x2in.

[xtian]

If you build yours like most Fender amps you don't even need a chassis cover. But if you do use one it will be sandwiched between the chassis and the cabinet, right? Anyway, I can't envision a problem.

[M Fowler]

That will be just fine mounting it that way. Use side rails under the chassis on each side for additional support and ease of sliding chassis into place.

But if it is a Fender style cab I would prefer the Fender chassis straps with long bolts going through the chassis and nut on the bottom, very easy to mount.

Mark

[sepulchre]

I'm currently building a little amp that will be my first to be mounted Fender style. I just went over the plans I was about to send the face plate maker and caught the fact that I had them backwards. (Whew!)

I will be mounting it like Mr. Fowler suggested, with bolts all the way through the chassis and Fender style straps on top. It's not finished yet but . . .

[Littlewyan]

Well the cover is just an option, thought I might as well use it so the amp is shielded. Good idea on the side rails Fowler. Never seen chassis straps before i'll look them up. I think I'd feel much better if I used long bolts like you said. Sepulchre that is a very good point, better remember that myself!

[M Fowler]

I have also just used the long Fender style bolts with finish washers on top, no chassis strap, to clean up the top.

But I don't mind the looks of chassis straps especially on Fender slant style cab.

[BarryW]

an interesting twist on mounting is the way my MKIIb Boogie is mounted. Again coming from the top, instead of just using large washers (or straps), there are countersunk holes the size of a washer, and there is a rubber cushion washer, then steel washer on top. Sort of a quasi-shock mount. I haven't tried to reproduce it, but it shouldn't be too difficult.

[billc]

FWIW I've used connector bolts on some of my builds and they look OK and and work well, have seen them in lengths up to 5" or so...the large head supports the load well and the low profile is good appearance wise....big box hardware stores carry them.



[img:400:400]http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/produc ... af_400.jpg[/img]

[Littlewyan]

I'm just going to use 4 x M4 Screws for mine with washers I think. I have however asked the cabinet builder if he'd be able to invert the cabinet so the chassis is mounted on the bottom. Its only a small cabinet so might be possible and I think it will look bit smarter. I'm more of a fan of bottom mounted chassis cabs, I'm a Marshall/Trainwreck guy, what can I say .

[briane]

yep, make some side rails - if their tight and the front/back sandwiches the chassy in, dont even need to secure the chassy down -

makes service easyyyyyyyy.

take off back, pull amp out. only way I do it now.

[sepulchre]

Bottom mount is easier, IME. But that's just how I've done it with all mine until now. You don't have to worry as much about how the mounting screws will look when they're on the bottom.

Some folks don't like the inverted mount for heat reasons. That may have some merit but Fender's been doing it for a long time and my Fenders never showed any adverse effects from it.

[Littlewyan]

Yer that was all I had against it, heat. Also I'll be coiling up the power cable and storing it in the back of the amp (no iec socket on this one) so top mount would have been good. However all 3 valves are covered by a valve shield so they shouldnt get damaged. Its ordered now anyway, bottom mounted. Thanks for your help guys. Have to remember all of this for future builds.

[Smokebreak]

I just mounted my 1 Watt in a cab today, and came up with a solution that works for me, top or bottom mount.
This one is bottom mount. The hammond I used had the lips turned in, so I used the Harbor frieght "threaded insert riveter" kit, available online. I love that thing. Put 4 #6 inserts in, as the amp weighs about 2-3 lbs, and the lips aren't that much wider than a #6 insert.
I then attach a tiny square of double sided tape to each of the riveted inserts, put the cab in the chassis, press down hard, and hope all 4 pieces of tape come off, and stick to the chassis. It helps to get some of the adhesive off the side that attaches to the chassis.
So then you have you 4 drill points, but my drill doesn't fit inside any cab well enough to drill a straight hole from the inside. So sink a nail, screw, whatever through the inside , through the bottom. Then you've got your drill point on the bottom of the chassis(or top, whatever).
I went with some "no slip" pads found at the big box stores for cheap, but this is where you could use finishing washers(Ebay, cheap) or Fender straps.

[Littlewyan]

Good method Smokebreak. When I mounted my Trainwreck Amp I stuck down masking tape on the inside of the amp, put the chassis in position, drew around the chassis, then measured where the mounting holes on the chassis where and made more markings on the masking tape. Then I did more measurements and moved the markings to underneath the cabinet and then finally drilled the holes. It was the first time I did something like this and was very touch and go. I think I checked each measurement about 10 times!

[M Fowler]

If the amp is going to have a bottom plate I use that plus width of faceplate to mark and drill the holes in the box.

On my Dumbles I used clear plastic cut to chassis size, hole position marked, drilled and then used as a drill guide for the cabinet.

Marshall chassis are the easy ones with the end outside mounting holes.

Fender slant style can be a little tricky.