Faceplate making material

[jcat5503]

I need to make some faceplates and I'm wondering where people get the supplies?

I'm going to use the thin clear lexan with paper underneath method..

Unless people are having better luck some other way with DIY faceplates?

Any suggestions?

Cheers

[boldaslove6789]

If you make a faceplate in Photo-shop you can adjust the dimensions of it and go to Kinko's and get it printed on a thick material (I forgot the name of the stuff) and voila a new faceplate. That's the only easy and cheap method I know of.

[selloutrr]

I've used transfer paper a few times.

The local trophy engraver

http://amplates.com/

oil paint

sharpie

sign shops might be able to help with thicker material and silk screening

[Ian444]

Greg, Traffolyte? Places that do electrical switchboard faceplates often use this material. CNC engraved. Much cheaper in volume though, a one-off is not so cheap, due to artwork and setup costs I presume. Not really DIY except that you decide the layout/artwork. I'm thinking of doing this soon.

[tubeswell]

I'm keen to try something like mother-of-pearl guitar scratchplate material with decals and an overcoat of lacquer FWIW. I saw this on another build recently and it looked really smart (and retro styley).

[David Root]

I get all mine custom made by Joe Vallina at www.amplates.com Doing faceplates yourself has a 99% chance of looking less than pro grade. Joe's plates are 100% pro grade.

Yes, not cheap, but except for "design curve" prototypes I wouldn't think of trying it myself.

[Structo]

Lose the period after the link address.

[davent]

Waterslide decals on the back of the Lexan, clearcoat, paint.

[IMG:800:600]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc30 ... G_0590.jpg[/img]

[IMG:800:600]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc30 ... 0596-1.jpg[/img]

Paint on the back of the Lexan.

[IMG:800:600]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc30 ... G_2224.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc30 ... G_2246.jpg[/img]

dave

[jcat5503]

Hey Dave where do you get the lexan from?

That looks nice! That's the look I would love to get

[FunkyE9th]

I've been thinking of trying this (http://www.pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/index.html). I think you should try it and let me know how it goes.

[Gaz]

I would highly not recommend Lexan. It is very easy to work with because it will not crack, however, it is because it is very soft. It will scratch with even a microfiber cloth causing swirl marks. This is why many companies still use Plexi when going the plastic route.

Plexi is hard, and difficult to scratch, plus scratches can be removed with Novus or similar products. Using these products on Lexan only makes things worse. Plexi is also harder to drill, but fine if you make a pilot hole with a fine tip bit (say 1/8 or so).

I've had a lot frustration with Lexan scratching and looking really sad, so I recommend using a different plastic. BUT, ,there is a typr of Lexan with a coating (like they use on race car winshields, eyeglasses, etc.) that will not scratch, however it's more expensive.

[jcat5503]

I figured it would

Where can I find thin clear plexi?

[statorvane]

Plexi is also harder to drill, but fine if you make a pilot hole with a fine tip bit (say 1/8 or so).

Yes it is hard to drill but I managed to drill holes for pots, switches, indicator light using a step bit, starting with a 1/8" pilot hole. It is not as aggressive as the high speed drill bits. Each step drills a little bit of plastic at a time until you get to the desired hole diameter. The high speed bits shattered the plexiglass virtually instantly.

[davent]

Hello,
I get the 1/16" polycarbonate, actually a different brand then Lexan, from a local plastic dealer, http://www.paplastics.com/ . Cut to size, no minimum and a couple of dollars per faceplate. The thinnest acrylic (plexi) i've been able to find is 1/8" so i used the thinner polycarbonate. Haven't had any issues with it marking up so i'll continue using it.


dave

[David Root]

Tom, sorry I missed that. Period gone!