Starting to populate the chassis....

[Dragon1]

I'm in Wisconsin....Thanks for the offer,
No hard feelings, ijedouglas, hopefully we're all friends and can take criticism as a learning tool. I am a builder/tinker, I'm 66yrs old and have been building stuff my whole life.
I build for satisfaction and enjoyment, and fun. If it works first time great, if it needs tweaking that's great too.

I've been here for a year now. I've read every post in the Dumble section to see if I could do this. I've seen you guys help everybody that asks. That's what a forum is for........help and respect to the elders, just like living.
With my life experiences I feel that I can do this, with your help. I've looked at pictures, watched the videos, some of which are really good, thank you.

Now for my criticism to you guys.

I'm building a #124 100watt head. Looking forward to having it work, I hope I get it to work. Maybe not the best choice but I didn't want to build a kit. I wanted to pick and choose my components, make mistakes along the way. That's how we learn, make a mistake and then fix it. Doesn't work for everything but it's a start.

But when you guys say look at the schematics, look at the drawing, look at the boards, and then send me to look at the #183 drawings and schematics.....it makes it hard to do.
Well, the Drawing doesn't match the schematics, which don't match the boards, which don't match the 183 build stuff, which don't have the heater wires on them cause your just supposed to know.....
If you gave all this info to someone to build this for you they wouldn't be able to finish it.
How would someone like me figure this all out without help from those who have done it bfore.
I am a smart guy, I've been told I'm a smart guy so it's not just me tooting my own horn,
Not an expert on schematics but if I stare at it long enough it makes sense...
Sorry if I've offended, Brian

[ijedouglas]

Brian

Not to get in a pissing match with you but no one ever "sent" you to drawings of #0183. Go and look at your post... you asked a question on how to wire up a bias board and you were told to look at how it was done in #0183.

The drawings/schematics/layouts and knowledge on this site are all provided at the costly sum of $0 and for the most part are extremely well documented and tried and tested on hundreds of builds. Hell, there are companies that have made an entire business out of the goodwill of folks on this site. I find it extremely disingenuous that you find the information shared here is not up to your standard. I reread the entire thread and everyone has been more than helpful answering your questions and trying to help you (hell, even one of the top commercial builders offered to help you in person). If you feel otherwise, I really don't know what else to tell you...

[sluckey]

You installed 470,000Ω screen resistors instead of 470Ω. Gotta correct that before the amp will make any joyful sounds.

[erwin_ve]

Now for my criticism to you guys.

I'm building a #124 100watt head. Looking forward to having it work, I hope I get it to work. Maybe not the best choice but I didn't want to build a kit. I wanted to pick and choose my components, make mistakes along the way. That's how we learn, make a mistake and then fix it. Doesn't work for everything but it's a start.

But when you guys say look at the schematics, look at the drawing, look at the boards, and then send me to look at the #183 drawings and schematics.....it makes it hard to do.
Well, the Drawing doesn't match the schematics, which don't match the boards, which don't match the 183 build stuff, which don't have the heater wires on them cause your just supposed to know.....
If you gave all this info to someone to build this for you they wouldn't be able to finish it.
How would someone like me figure this all out without help from those who have done it bfore.
I am a smart guy, I've been told I'm a smart guy so it's not just me tooting my own horn,
Not an expert on schematics but if I stare at it long enough it makes sense...
Sorry if I've offended, Brian

Hi Brian,

This forum has information gathered through the years by willing members to share.
Your criticism points are valid for a commercial company delivering complete kits.
However the information here is sufficient for the DIY with a disclaimer you need to know your basics.
Even if you don't know the basics, like you, we don't mind to help you out. On the other hand you need to communicate exactly what you know and what you don't know when members here give advice. Otherwise all good willing support end up with frustration on both sides.

Erwin

[Dr d]

Hi, you need to take a deep breath and walk away from it for a day or so. Then, come back to the chassis and systematically work your way through the circuit from the input to the output jacks and check and double check your connections (using your multimeter for continuity testing) and values of components including polarity of electrolytic caps. The #124 layout and schematic, used together, with help you to do this. You could use a highlighter to mark your progress through the amp on the schematic. When you are happy that everything is as it should be, then check the voltages inside of the chassis WITHOUT valves in or a load connected (ie no speaker plugged in.) Check the DC voltages on pin 3 of your output valve sockets ( plus negative DC on pin 5 which should be set to the highest negative bias of approximately -50v), and then each node of the dropping string. Check for AC voltage on your heaters. Strictly speaking it is good practice to do all this with a "bulb limiter" in series with your line voltage. This will indicate any possible shorts.
As you can see, building a valve amp is one thing.....getting it started up is another. Hope this helps in some small way to get you further on.

[rogb]

This is exceptionally good advice, one we all
followed at the beginning of our amp journey.
I admire your intent to see this through, but building simple single ended circuits is a less stressful way to learn the ins and outs of of the high voltage world.
This was my fire up bible back in the day, along with a bulb limiter.
https://paulamps.com/info.html#FirstPowerUp
Also a kind invite from the great and knowledgeable Jelle is something that should be considered seriously! I just checked it's 950 miles away so ignore my English advice

Hi, you need to take a deep breath and walk away from it for a day or so. Then, come back to the chassis and systematically work your way through the circuit from the input to the output jacks and check and double check your connections (using your multimeter for continuity testing) and values of components including polarity of electrolytic caps. The #124 layout and schematic, used together, with help you to do this. You could use a highlighter to mark your progress through the amp on the schematic. When you are happy that everything is as it should be, then check the voltages inside of the chassis WITHOUT valves in or a load connected (ie no speaker plugged in.) Check the DC voltages on pin 3 of your output valve sockets ( plus negative DC on pin 5 which should be set to the highest negative bias of approximately -50v), and then each node of the dropping string. Check for AC voltage on your heaters. Strictly speaking it is good practice to do all this with a "bulb limiter" in series with your line voltage. This will indicate any possible shorts.
As you can see, building a valve amp is one thing.....getting it started up is another. Hope this helps in some small way to get you further on.

[Dr d]

This was my fire up bible back in the day, along with a bulb limiter.
https://paulamps.com/info.html#FirstPowerUp

Even better! Read and read again. Never forget that you are messing with serious voltages.

[sluckey]

You seem to be reading the color code wrong on those blue 5 band resistors. There are numerous places where you used a wrong value. I suggest using an ohm meter to verify the value of every blue 5 band resistor in this amp. Replace with correct values. The attached pic shows an example. There are more!

[WhopperPlate]

Yikes…

With all due respect , please let me say this :

The ampgarage is a treasure trove of knowledge, built upon the blood sweat and tears of the truly passionate and arguably that few deserve, yet here we all are learning and growing with it on a daily basis . So in it’s honor let’s stay humble and let’s treat it with the reverence it deserves.

We are in the presence of extremely generous and hospitable individuals who have amassed a mountain of wisdom and knowledge. Especially some of our members , such as Martin and RG, with their perpetual willingness to educate and advance , are akin to saints in these regards . We should all stay small , resist finger pointing , and take responsibility for our own ignorance.

Thank god for the ampgarage

[Dragon1]

To all on "The Amp Garage"
"Public apology"
Just so we're clear, I'm not mad or upset with anybody.....hopefully no one is mad at me...
I really thank you for pointing out the mistakes I have made. I probably thought that an amp would be easier to build than it is. I was wrong.
I can say that, I'm not perfect, but I do like to build things, they don't always work at first but can be figured out.
I do realize the high voltages are extremely dangerous and again thank you for the warnings. I probably have a lot of things
wrong or wrong parts installed, that's all part of the fun. Don't know how I screwed up the resistors but I work on this and order parts late at night,
Probably not the best time to do this. Resistors have so many choices it's easy to screw up.
Thanks as always
Brian
Here's my chopper if anyone's interested.

[ijedouglas]

Hey Brian,

I don't think anyone is mad at you. If anything, I see concern for your safety while building this amp. Hopefully we can get you safely to the end goal of building one of these amazing amps. I would strongly advise against buying parts (or working on the amp) late at nights...ask me how I know . Take your time, get the right parts, verify them with your multimeter and you should increase your chances of your goal. Sometimes going slow is going fast...

Question, I see you mentioned you want to build the #0124 Low-plate classic. Is there a reason you chose that over the #0124 Skyline? I ask this as the latest version (Skyline) is probably the most tested of all the builds. It is also, IMHO, the better of the tonestacks for the first time builder. Just curious...

Cool chopper!

[dbharris]

Hi Brian,

All good here as well. I agree with Ian, moving really slow will end up taking less time overall.

I also second the highlighter test on your schematic.

You will get there!

Best,

Dan

[Dragon1]

I'll stop working nights on it, it's not a good idea.
I always try to be safe when I work on it.
I have a bulb limiter and have been using it when I turn the amp on. I do it without valves and speaker, won't do these till no more smoking resisters and voltages are correct.
Maybe they're smoking cause they're the wrong ratings......Something to look for.
Your advice has always been good. No specific reason for the #124, I could have picked any of them really.
Brian
I there any of us in southeast Wiconsin???

[ijedouglas]

No specific reason for the #124, I could have picked any of them really.

If you are not married to the #124 Low-plate classic I would strongly suggest you go with the #0124 Low-plate Skyline https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5719. Once you have a working amp you can always change configurations and try other flavors. The important thing is to get it working first and I think that that amp is very well documented (pics as well)
and will give you a best chance of success.

Just to be clear, there are 2 flavors of the #124 amp. The link I posted is the current version of the amp and is probably the best documented amp on the forum. The 1984 schematic is a theoretical on what the amp would have looked like as it was initially built, prior to the Skyline update in 1988. That is why I am recommending the Skyline version for your first build

[Dragon1]

K, I'll take a good look at it.
If it's got a better sound to it, it would be worth it.
Thak you,
Brian
More bike pics.
I didn't do the paint job but I designed the pattern.
Made the sissy bar, gas tank, and lots of mounts and things.