The Amp Garage

BNP does aluminum as well as plastic. They can use the AI files.
Dave

It's actually way more simple than all that. I've worked on a .50 Caliber and the schematic is not drawn very well. V1 A+B are just in parallel, grid included. The 470K resistor is just the ground reference for both halves of V1. Before I saw the inside of one, I was also confused as to what was goi...

Has anyone tried the Ceramic Weber 1265? Cheaper than the Celestion anyway. It might be an alternative if it sounds the same. Opinions?
Dave

Just so everybody understands, I wasn't taking drz400 to task. I really didn't understand why he didn't understand. Not trying to start anything. He explained his meaning and expressed his opinions quite clearly. I'm happy to see Andy build all kinds of amps regardless of who plays them.
Dave

What's not to understand? Andy worked with Frost and developed a more modern high gain amp to compliment his amp line. Are you asserting that Frost isn't a good player? I haven't heard him, so I don't know.
Dave

tictac, There's really no benefit to keeping the caps powered up. Why would you want just the first set to be formed? Really it doesn't matter. Regular amp use will keep the caps formed no problem. Even using it a couple of times a year will acomplish that. Keeping the +HT caps connected will still ...

tictac,
10 watts will work just fine. I suggested 25 watts to help reduce the heat level. Anything helps. You might still want to add another switch for your standby rather than leaving the power tubes sort of "on" all the time, but your second schematic should work fine!
Dave

That's not going to do what you want, I don't think. You would have to attach +HT to the first filter cap section, change S1 to a regular SPST switch and add another SPST between the rectifiers and the first filter cap section for your standby. You may also want to upgrade the resistor from 10 watts...

roknroll,
You're right. The 22K goes to B+, 82K to the plate.
Dave

From the schematic I've seen of the 50 watt, Guitar Player review and the list of controls in the literature posted by Bear, the Electroplex is nothing like a Dumble at all. The clean is separate from the OD although they share the first stage. The clean has a Baxandall tone stack after the second s...

Wow! That is awesome! Thanks much to you, Gil and Billy. I can't imagine how difficult it was to de-goop that thing. Were you able to measure the resistor value for the feedback loop on the second stage?
Dave

It's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like you don't have a connection from the phase inverter tail to ground (or to the presence control). That would explain the voltage readings you're getting. That would certainly break the audio signal.
Dave

I have the Emi R,W&B paired with a Wizard in a Top Hat open back 2X12. I use this with my Fuchs SLX. They sound great together with no cone cry I can hear. The R,W&B did need some time to break in. It was a little dark sounding at first.

I guess I should have asked if he used a .1uf in place of the 1uf accidentally. That's what I meant. Really.

NFB 4.7K to 4 ohm tap, 2Kpot 390/1uF

Are you really using a 1uf cap there or a .1 (100nf)? It's easy to goof up. I've done it..............