The Amp Garage

Sounds like a good project. I don't have any objection to any of your bullet points.

Best of luck with it.

Using CCs on anything except the plate resistors will just add noise and reduce reliability. :wink: Even as plate resistors, the amount of 'vintage' harmonic distortion they add is minimal, and that only at high voltages (>>100v). I'd certainly avoid CCs for things like the standard 1M input grid re...

When I have to connect two HV wires (e.g., recycling a PT), I solder them together, carefully trim off anything pointy, and then double shrink wrap the connection.

OK for lower voltage (and likely lower current) connections. I wouldn't trust the insulation at typical tube amp voltages.

Aside: An ECC83/12AX7 may lack the oomph to drive a 201 output stage, but an ECC81/12AT7 can do it, and has in every HIWATT DR201 ever made.

I can't speak to the quality of either, but I doubt either would be a bad choice. HOWEVER, if you want 200 watts, you're going to need a DR201-style power transformer and power supply circuit that produces ~700VDC. This will make the amp MUCH heavier. :o The 201 chassis is also physically larger to ...

I think the orientation is more important when they're right next to each other (a la Marshall). At opposite ends of the chassis, I don't think you have to worry about it too much.

I wouldn't trust the stacked caps to balance the voltage, add parallel resistors to force an even voltage split. The floating foot switch voltage might be an issue if the user connected it to a foots switch controller vs. a simple SPST switch, i.e., a situation where the controller assumes sleeve = ...

martin manning wrote: ↑Wed Sep 21, 2022 2:44 pm HTS part number and 996 EIA code say they're Heyboer.

+1

Yep, part of the characteristic that determines voltage tolerance is physical size. Always check the data sheet.

6CA7s are not true pentodes, they are beam tubes like KTs or 6L6s. Always suspected this. I've tried finding data sheet(s) for any US-made 6CA7s like Sylvania or GE, but cannot find any. Any help? To confuse things further, European manufacturers sold EL34s (true pentodes) marked "6CA7" for the U.S...

6CA7s are not true pentodes, they are beam tubes like KTs or 6L6s. They are generally equivalent to EL34s, but I'm sot surprised there's some differences.

The JJs I have no explanation for.

All of the parts distributors don't really have a method for shipping outside of their normal parcel/maybe large envelope method. You try shipping anything (even a grain of sand) for less in a box or large envelope.

We're talking about two different things, threaded studs (OP) and threaded inserts (my mistaken contribution).

I agree with tragic, it's way too easy to slip up and puncture a speaker with the studs; I'm not a fan either.

I've seen what I think you're describing in furniture; there's a coarse outer reverse thread that goes into the wood, and they have machine screw threads on the inside. It's cleaner-looking than a T-nut, and won't ever "pop loose" like T-nuts can.