The Amp Garage

I looked on the Kester 44 roll, but didn't see any mention of flux core. I didn't look into it any further though. So I guess I do use flux. The biggest change in my soldering was when I went from a Weller 35 watt iron to the station mentioned above, and going to the quality solder (Kester 44) from ...

It doesn't seem to damage the solder and I don't have to hold the iron on the joint for very long.

I guess I can slowly reduce my temps.

So I hit it at 650. Hope that's not too hot cause it's working well and Im not changing.

Lol.

I guess my older analog station is marked at percentage or something. It's around 65 on the dial!

I never really thought much of it, but now it's quite obvious.

It's a Weller WES51

xtian wrote: ↑Wed Feb 01, 2023 4:55 am I only use liquid or paste flux when components or wire have oxidized and are solder phobic. My solder is Kester 63/37 (eutectic) "no-clean", 0.8mm. I'm mid-way thru my third pound in 13 years. Love it.

That's what I use. Best solder ever.

I've been coming across the flux topic and some statements that it should be used on EVERY joint. I don't use it. I use Kester 44 and my Weller station set at around 65 degrees and my solder joints come out shiny, and I can watch the solder "cool" into a solid in a nice uniform fashion. I hope I wor...

I hadnt expected for them to sound like mustards, whatever that sounds like. I don't like drops much, and figured if I were gonna spend premium on anything it would be those. I have read a lot of good about them. More than any other "vintage type" new cap.

Not wanting to use carbon comp at all. Carbon film if not metal film.

I'm building a Marshall 2204 and am having a hard time finding the resistors I want to use. Particularly 2watt carbon film of a good known brand. I did find some TE Connectivity but don't know of anyone using those for plates. And half of my head is telling me the whole thing isn't worth the hassle....

Antique electronic supply has some stuff that I may try. I may be a little bit guilty of just wanting to put some old school craftsmanship into it also. My main goal is to keep connections above the board, with no use of holes going through the board. I'll have to use hollow turrets, but they will b...

I've really kinda decided what I want to do for my next build but I wanted to get some opinions. I'm not wanting to consider PCB in this. I believe that's the most durable but it's not my cup of tea at the moment. In my opinion, eyelet boards are the most durable besides PCB. The components are secu...

After much thought, I've decided to go with a traditional turret board. Reading about the 2204 alot has informed me that there's a good chance I will be changing things around to suit my need. So I want to make modifications easier. Probably build a tweed bassman out of the board. Anyway. Thanks.

Well I bought the chassis and faceplate. One thing I'm concerned about is the fact I bought the Heyboer APD-8032H choke. The APD-8023H power transformer and APD 8025A-H output transformer also. Im hoping the four hole choke is a good choice. I will have to drill to mount it. I'm gonna start a build ...

I knew there was some place I had seen what I wanted.

Come on payday!

alkuz I appreciate that. I can make that work. I'm not going for vintage correct, just wanting it to fit.

If I were to remove two of the input jacks on that drawing and recenter the rest accordingly, would that center the controls in the opening of an 18 watt head cabinet?